French Polynesia- the remote island chain in the South Pacific, the cradle of Polynesian civilization with Tahiti at its heart. The inhabitants of New Zealand, Hawaii, Easter Island, and countless other civilizations in the South Pacific all stem from “Tawhiti” and its surrounding islands. This island group is the literal definition of paradise. The water is a bright beautiful blue and the lush green tropical mountains of the interior dominated the islands. They were formed millions of years ago by volcanic activity.
For thousands of years, the Polynesians were completely isolated from the rest of the world, navigating from island to island in a vast sea. They truly were a civilization on the edge of the world. That is, until Captain Cook encountered them on one of his many expeditions during the late 18th century. The Polynesians were ultimately subjected to colonization, which obviously caused consequences. However, colonialism hasn’t been the only detrimental trend to hit the Polynesians. tourism (in the modern sense that is) has also helped to destroy the island’s spirit. Don’t get me wrong, French Polynesia is a truly beautiful and magnificent place- almost every picture one takes there looks like its either photoshopped or belongs in a stock-photo calendar. Every sight is almost too good to be true. However, the romanticism behind these islands and this civilization is dead. It seems to have been replaced by a tourist-pandering culture instead (at no fault to the indigenous population, I might add). Resorts are everywhere, islands are expensive, and most locals speak English. Across the islands, there were around 3 Million inhabitants at its civilization’s peak. today, there are only 400,000 inhabitants of French Polynesia and 250,000 of those live in the capital city of Papeete on Tahiti. The Polynesians are a shadow of their former selves. As one local said while reminiscing “The life before, my friends is better than now.”
I spent a week in French Polynesia on two islands: Tahiti and Moorea. I got in on the 24th despite leaving New Zealand on the 25th (thank god for time zones). The only international airport in the country was in the capital city of Papeete. I arrived at 11 pm and caught a taxi to my hostel right in the heart of the city: Mahana Lodge and Hostel. It is an extremely great, cheap, clean, and unknown place. Although I did not know it yet, the day that I arrived also marked the start of an international outrigger championship that I was, unfortunately, unable to see.